Saturday 3 April 2010

Awesome Agra ...


I don't think there are words to describe the absolute enchantment of the Magnificent Taj Mahal. As you enter through the East gate, you get a glimpse through the archway of the gate. I couldn't take my eyes away from it until I was standing in front of it and had a full uninterrupted view of the most beautiful building in the world.

My first thought was that it couldn't possibly be as old as it is. It was built between 1630 and 1653, by the Emperor Shah Jehan, in memory of his wife Mumtaj Mahal, who died delivering their 14th child. She was his third and favourite wife. It's said that when she died he had no more than 20 white hairs in his beard, and within 3 days his head and beard were totally white ..

The building looks pristine as if it were finished yesterday, or at least has very recently had a major facelift or steam clean. It hasn't ! It's spotless. It is made of white marble from nearby Jaipur, which never needs maintenance. It took 20 thousand men and 18 years to build. (The other 5 years from 1630 to 1653 were for the surrounding mosques and gates). The environment is very well preserved. There are restrictions on the type of vehicle which can drive into the immediate area. We had to park at a car park and take an electric car to the site and any cigarettes, cigars or matches, lighters etc., are confiscated at the entrance.

There were crowds on the site today as I'm sure there are every day. However, it was still possible to find quite spaces to savour it and to take photos. The 'Princess Diana' bench is very popular and there were queues for photos there, but the queue moved along in a very orderly way and no one was unduely delayed. The queue to get inside the building took a little longer, but that was fine. You could gaze up at it and see the detail more closely while queueing. You're not allowed to take photos inside, so nothing to show from there. The complex coloured designs look like paint, but in fact they are inlaid precious stones, absolutely beautiful and again look very recent and not at all 350 years old.

Inside, it's quite a small chamber where you can see a reproduction of the tomb. The real one is placed below the surface in the same place. The Taj Mahal is totally symmertical down a line which runs through the centre of the building and the grounds. The centre line bisects the Empress's tomb. The only piece within the entire complex which breaks the symmerty is the Emperor's tomb which is placed at the side of his wife's. Obviously, there is no Emperor's tomb on the other side.

It was very hot today, but there's quite a lot of shade in the arena as there are plenty of trees, so the heat wasn't oppressive. Also, we had waited till later in the day to visit the Taj, to save the best of the conditions for the masterpiece.

It was a truely aweinspiring experience to spend time today at the Taj Mahal and definitely a major highlight of the trip.

We had started the day leaving Delhi quite early and driving to Agra. We stopped along the way to take a photo of a snake charmer .. well I thought I was just going to take a photo, but the charmer decided to make his slimy friend part of the action and place the very large snake around me. As you can see I wasn't too sure at first ! but I got used to him when his fangs were directed out of my face ...

My hotel in Agra was the Raj Mahal, a brand new one, which only opened 2 months ago. It's lovely and the staff are wonderful. They could not be more helpful, and the food was fantastic. I really enjoyed my stay at the Raj Mahal.

Our first call today, before we went to the Taj, was the Red Fort at Agra. This is a magnificent citdel on the other side of the Yamuna River about 2km northwest of the Taj Mahal. The river was very low today and there was hardly any water, but when the river is full, it almost looks like a sea between the 2 sites. The fort was built between 1565 and 1573, started by Akbar the Great. Akbur was the grandson of Babur, the founder of the Mugul empire. Babur had sent his son, Humayun to capture Agra, which he did, but in such a benevolent manner that the family of the previous ruler, the Raja of Gwalior rewarded Humayun with many fine gifts, among them the Koh-i-noor Diamond, now one of Britain's Crown Jewels. The ancient city of Agra maintained it's position as capital of the Mugul Empire for over a century even when Akber's grandson, Shah Jehan (of Taj Mahal fame above), built a new city, Shahjehanabad, now known as Old Delhi, his heart remained in Agra. The Red Fort of Agra was comissioned and started by Akbar, but it was his grandson Shah Jehan who had most of the principle buildings erected. The Fort became the seat of the Mugul empire for many generations.

Shah Jehan built his wonderful monument of Love, within sight of the fort. You can see the Taj from a few places around the fort. Later after the Taj Mahal was built, Shah Jehan was placed under house arrest by his son in the Fort, where he sat daily and gazed at his creation. When he died he was buried alongside his wife in the Taj Mahal.

What a memorable and exciting day. It was wonderful and I felt quite drained at the end of it all.

Tomorrow it's on the road again to Jaipur.

Here's some highlights of the day ...

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